Mars Attack

He is back, James (AKA @belverker) is at it again this time he is looking at Mars Attack.

So as someone who hasn’t been too keen on Mantic in the past (if you don’t believe me check out some of my twitter posts…) I backed this game with a lot of trepidation, because on the one hand it was being made by Mantic, but on the other it was Mars Attacks, which is one of my favourite properties.

So jump a head a bit over a year of waiting after the Kickstarter ended I received the first package for the game, this package included the base game and additional mission books. My initial reaction when I opened the box was quite positive as the miniatures are quite good for Board Game Pieces (I feel I should emphasize this as they are were not designed to be super high detailed pieces, they are even made with coloured plastic Green for the Martians, Tan for the Soldiers and red for the Heroes), the terrain is really cool (even if the clips are quite easy to break) and the paper mats are usable (though getting the rubber ones will be great).

I had a read through the rulebook next and it is a really simple system (my understanding is that it is a simplified version of the deadzone rules) Basically when you activate a model it has a few options such as move a square and shoot, move 2 squares, Fight in combat, or you can play a card from your hand (more on these soon)…the Shoot and Fight actions are pretty simple you roll 3 D8’s (maybe more depending on the situation) and compare to your Shoot stat, for each die that equals or beats your required score that is a success, the opponent then rolls against their survive stat, if the attacker wins the defender is killed, if the defender wins it survives, super simple. Obviously terrain, special rules and cards affect the amount of dice that are rolled.

The cards are quite cool, each card has an effect/ability for both the Martians or the Humans or it is an event card that is played immediately, these events represent things that are happening off the actual playing space (a 2 foot by 2 foot area) some of these events are a giant robot throwing a car onto the table and causing damage, a herd of burning cattle running onto the board and causing havoc, and scared citizens running around, as well as others (speaking of these events, my biggest complaint about the boxed game is that the tokens included to represent the citizens and cow are terrible, they do not fit in their little stand-slot at all, and just feel very cheap, obviously there are miniatures coming out to represent these, which I feel will be essential (in fact I have already bought some even though I have a set coming with the rest of the kickstarter packages)

Some of James' models
Some of James’ models

The scenarios provided with the base game a quite fun and really capture the feel of the setting as they are very wacky. I feel this is where the game will shine, as while there is going to be rules to have pointed battles, the scenarios do a good job of representing the scenes you see in the Cards/Movie/Comic Books.

Overall I feel this is quite a good product and am glad I backed the kickstarter (I’m really looking forward to the rest of my stuff)

Hopefully Mantic continue to support this line with additional releases once the stuff the Kickstarter unlocked are released at retail stores.

Wild West Exodus Overview & Thoughts

James (AKA @belverker) is back with another round of fun with WWX. You can see his first post HERE

First up I will say I have only had a couple of games and they were basically starter set games (Starter set and one additional model), and I lost quite convincingly both times, so take that into account when reading the overview (and let me know of any glaring mistake I make)

Alrighty, the first thing that you need to get your head around is that a +1 to your roll is bad and a -1 is good…this is because the number printed on the character cards is the target number so if you needed 5+ getting a +1 to hit means you need a 6+ to hit.

Otherwise the stat card is pretty standard if you have seen stat cards for other games (War Machine in particular)

 

Stat1

Stat2

The basic turn structure is determine initiative (who activates first), activate models, then maintenance (again pretty much the standard)

Before determining initiative each player needs to determine their Influence Pool, this is the total of the Influence stat of all of your models. The Influence Pool is used to allow you to reroll any dice for the turn, basically before you roll you can put some Influence points to the roll and if you need a reroll you use one of the assigned points, however even if you don’t use any Influence to reroll any that were assigned are gone for the rest of the turn. This was one of the really good features of the game as it made you put influence into rolls you really didn’t want to fail but had to balance that with the chance you had of succeeding anyway.

Once initiative is worked out the first player for the turn gets to activate between 1 and 3 models (more if you use gang actions) each model has a certain number of action points they can use per turn, and they are used for things like moving, shooting, fighting in combat, aiming, going on the lookout (overwatch) etc.

Shooting and close combat are straight forward, shooting uses true line of sight and basically if they are in any cover you get a +1 to you hit roll, you get as many shots as the Rate of Fire of the gun per action point spent, and if you have 2 of the same one-handed weapon you get shots equal to the rate of fire x the number of weapons.

Melee is basically the same as shooting if you are engaged (an enemy is within your halo) you get to use an action and get as many rolls equal to your strike stat x the number of the same close combat weapon you have.

As you would expect this can lead to a lot of attacks from some of the more powerful models.

Once you have determined if you hit the victim gets to do an armour roll which is just the roll of a D10 plus their armour stat, this number is subtracted from the Power of the weapon and if that number is greater than 0 you suffer that much damage…

You continue like that until the game ends and work out who won based on the scenario played.

The game was very straight forward and very quick, I think we needed more cover in the centre of the table as, as soon as a model stepped out there they basically died, but even with more cover I could see this game still being very bloody early on, and I personally can’t wait to get some more games in, especially at higher points levels.

As he took so long James will be doing a couple more of these posts about other games 🙂 he has no choice.

Wild West Exodus

Big thank you for James (AKA @belverker) for stepping up to help me cover some of the systems that I don’t have time to on here. So here I hand over to my new WWX expert.

G’day everyone,

Here I am, another poor sap suckered into writing content for the Bear :), so here I am writing about Wild West Exodus (WWX).

If you haven’t heard of WWX yet, it is a science fiction/alternate history setting, set in the late 1800’s mostly centred around famous people from the American western frontier of that time (hence the name). So you’ll have forces containing characters such as General Grant, Abe Lincoln, Jessie James, Sitting Bull amongst others.

First things first, I haven’t had a game yet so the main focus of this post will the quality of the Rulebook (I have the big one), the resin models, the plastic models, and my initial thoughts of the rules.

The Rulebook

This feels like a good premium product, a good solid hardcover, I was quite impressed with the overall look and layout of this book (I think I have the Kickstarter version as it has a different cover to the one on the online store).

After being impressed with the overall presentation I had a flick though and was a little disappointed in some of the art as a lot of it came across as very concept sketch like, this may have been a design choice though so as to fit the old style book they seem to be going for.

The first 200 pages of the 350 page count contain the fluff for the setting, this is done as a bunch of short stories and take you from the dawn of time to the period where the game is set.

(They cover this stretch of time to show you how this world is different to ours and what the motivations of the more hidden characters in the story are)

Overall the fluff was pretty good, not the best I have ever read but far from the worst. I like the short story style to set it up but feel it could have benefited with some different styles as well.

Next up we have the rules, these follow a pretty standard order and cover everything you need to know and I felt I understood how the game worked just by reading them through and not needing to flick between sections to understand terms and such. There are some nice reminder boxes and I didn’t notice any obvious mistakes with spelling or formatting.

After/as part of the rules section there is a section detailing the scenarios.

These are split into two different types, competitive and narrative. The competitive ones are similar in style to 6th edition 40K, what I liked though is the map showing deployment also gives a sample terrain layout so you get a good idea about how much terrain you need for the game. The narrative scenarios are based around some narrative from the stories and looked like they would be good fun to play but would be considered not exactly balanced.

Then comes the Hobby section, this contains some helpful advice as well as a pretty good painting guide. I personally am not a big fan of the painting style but it did give some good hints for NMM and some other techniques. At the end of this section were a couple of pages of fully painted models from all the factions.

At the end of the book there was no index…this is poor form in my opinion…Though I have noticed a few games doing this and leaving the index for their mini rulebook.

The Resin Models

I currently have 6 resin models for WWX, two I got from their Gencon 2013 sale, two are part of their $5 model deal (they have a new one every month and for the whole month it is $5) and 2 are from the Warrior Nation starter box from Kickstarter.

First up I was very disappointed in the two models I got from Gencon (Kyle the Black and Marshall McCain). They had very soft detail and some pretty major gaps in the joins (and no bases but that was a packaging issue) this made me hold off getting some models for quite a while.

When they started their $5 model promotion I bought the first one (Alt pose General Grant) and when he arrived I was much more impressed with the quality of the detail in the model (haven’t built him yet so not sure on the gaps yet), The second $5 model I got was an alternate Dark Counsel model and again very happy with the detail (this is a single piece model so no gaps) and finally the two models from the starter box, Sitting Bull and Sky Spirit.

Both of these models look like they are good as well. Also the resin feels quite strong and not brittle so that is a big thumbs up here.

Sitting bull
Sitting Bull Front
Sitting bull2
Sitting Bull Back

The Plastic Models

WWX

Look at how packed that sprue is, yes there are 10 complete models there, however there are no customizing options. The detail on these is great, on par with the plastic Malifaux models (although WWX seem to have chosen to do less cuts).

The only issue I have had so far is that there doesn’t seem to have been much effort put in to hide the joins, granted this is hard to do on Warrior Nation models as they have a lot of bare skin. But it is something I hope they look into going forward. As a bonus I will also mention the bases and the base inserts:

WWX2

I personally love the base style as they add an extra style element to the models, the base inserts are really nice too, and being plastic the plastic models love being glued to them 🙂

This is a game that I am looking forward to playing and hopefully convincing some club members to get some models for as well 😉 After I have managed to get a game I will give an overview of that but from my initial reading it seems to have grabbed the best bits from 40K, Malifaux, Infinity, and Warmachine (are there good bits in this game…(now now play nice – doc)) and added a little bit on top as well (there seems to be a great mechanic to speed up large games, which I am looking forward to).

Cheers for James for doing this, hopefully we can convince him to do this more regular (not the Warmachine bashing)..

X-Wing – a Beginners Fall

So after a call for guest writers, a few idio…volutneers came forward 🙂

This is the first of what I hope is some semi-regular people taking time to add to the madness on here, so over to Harry..

Hobby, we all love it. For me it involves almost 20 years of Warhammer 40k.

I tried Necromunda, Gorka Morka and Spacehulk but they all got sold. Even other armies got sold to leave me with loads of awesome space marines. Why? Because I love them, they are to me the epitome of a sci-fi army; Beautiful.

However I have found a new game, one to stay!! Since I was a little boy I loved science fiction and so when I was looking over Element games and I discovered X-wing from Fantasy Flight Games. Oh the joy, my face lit up like a kid in a candy shop, I bought myself the X-wing starter set straight away.

All you need to get going and to learn the basics, not bad for £27. I do love my painting and modelling but one appeal of these is the fact they come fully painted ready to play.

First impressions of the models are good. Obviously the hobby head starts to think about repainting them to my own design, but its not needed and I have far too many things to do.

I played a few games with some colleagues who don’t do tabletop gaming and they liked the games. Didn’t take longer than half hour for 3 of them to get to grips with the game play even whilst drinking.

As far as game size goes each ship has points costs, and also pilots do too. Luke Skywalkers X-wing is more in cost than a rookie pilots, but Luke does come with r2d2.

Untitled

As you can see in the bottom right hand corner Luke costs 5 points more. This will come into play in another post.

I couldn’t resist and ended up buying more of the smaller expansions including Slave 1, the HWK-290 and a Tie advanced..

As you can see in the pictures each expansion comes with more cards and more tokens, I have had to set up a storage system to keep thing organized other wise I would be a mess!

Summing up, my first impressions are great. The game play is fun and easily manageable and the models come painted! I will never have an unpainted model in this game!

Hopefully, my next post will be a bit more about playing the game, if the bear is up for having me.

I can be contacted on twitter @harrythegrumpy or through grumpyharry2014.

Soapy Bearbox – Organisation, Organisation, Organisation

Strange happened recently, someone volunteered to be a guest writer on here :O

I know rigth, any Ant has been checked out by the doctors and is appratnely not insane. So without further ado here is his take on some organsing that we wargamers are well…..someone else will do it 😉

Fancy reading more than make sure to check out his blog HERE;

Organisation, Organisation, Organisation: Venues and Gaming Clubs

 This one is going to be brutally honest, because it needs to be. So, perhaps you are considering starting up, and running your own gaming club? My first suggestion would be to consider long and hard as to whether or not you actually should. Because if there is one thing any hobbyist learns, is when actually organising a group of any enthusiasts, the amount of problems that rise from doing so are enough to prematurely age a teenager into a grumpy sod in their 50s within weeks. Running a gaming group is one of the most stressful, thankless, and frustrating things you can possibly do, and I work in the care profession!

So why is it so fraught with peril? What are the pitfalls? How can one avoid them? The sad truth is that there’s very little you can do to avoid some of them. One thing I never begrudge GW staffers is the act of having to run campaigns and gaming nights, and having to keep gamers happy. That’s a tough enough task without the added baggage of having to also go to the effort of actually establishing a venue as something that people should bother to attend.

The best place to start with such a venture is to look at yourself. Can you do the job? Being in charge of a club requires certain values, which you really need in order to keep going at it. The primary one is patience. You may think you have patience, but do you truly have it? A few hours of being in a position of responsibility and stress will quickly determine if you have, and it will usually inform you that you don’t have any, or at least certainly not enough of it.

Managing people will be the main source of irritation. If you are easily stressed, upset, or in a particular position in your life that brings on stress (such as uni, tough patch at work, just had a new child, etc), then such an endeavour should ideally be avoided. Why? Because people are annoying, and Gamers are exceptionally annoying; they expect something to be done about gaming, but you can count on one hand the amount of people who will actually do anything other than maybe turn up when all the work is done, and expect a game. If that annoys you (and it will), then you need a contingency for it. You need to prepare yourself mentally for a thankless job, because it almost always is a thankless job.

Now, you can certainly benefit from a bit of an easy-going nature, but you will need drive as well. You need to effectively be a dictator, because you’ll have a large mix of the uselessly indifferent and a select group who fancy they can do it better. There will be tension. There will be exchanges of views, and you need the self-certainty to be able to plough through that process with firm ideas. You have to be prepared to fight your corner, be awkward, and to confront people, especially if you are charging admission/membership to pay for the venue. Because people wont pay if there aren’t sufficiently noisy authority figures. People will take facilities for granted. The only way to guarantee payment is to prevent entry without it. Never accept IOUs because you will be waiting far, far too long for them.

You also need to be ruthless, especially if your venue has strict rules about cleanliness and contraband (i.e. do they let you bring your own food, pop, alcohol etc). If you’re getting the venue at particularly low rates, or even for free, it’s usually a good idea to use your camera phone, and take before and after pictures each time the facility is used, at least until you determine that your hosts aren’t going to be awkward. As someone who has also been in a band, you have to be really careful, especially with jumping between multiple venues. Your hosts will be ruthless, and I have had cases of staff saying lights have been left on; tables have been left a mess, etc. It’ll come down to your word against them, so you either need evidence (hence the camera suggestion) or be prepared to find another venue.

It’s also worth trying to talk sense to, and indeed haggle with hosts. It sounds mad, but I have regularly got the impression that most host venues would be happier if you weren’t using their facilities. Rates charged could be unrealistic, they’ll be awkward about packing up (turning up early to remind you to pack up is a party favourite), and they’ll generally go out of their way to make you feel like you’re a burden. Do not accept it. Always be polite, clean, keep your ship in good order, but remind them that you pay a rate, that you’re using the room (i.e. it’s not going to waste), and you’d be happy to recommend their facilities to others (although be careful about this one, as it seems many hosts actually hate having work to do, and by work I mean sitting on their arses all day and at the end of it you give them money. What a chore it must be to be them!). Don’t be afraid to give your members a hard time if they’re letting the side down too. Many a gaming club that actually had cushy facilities has fallen on the wayside by a few bad eggs spoiling it.

Also, make sure, absolutely sure, that payment is given properly. Often individual staff can sink so low as to pocket your admission fee for themselves and say you didn’t pay. Make sure you give the money either to a trusted member of staff, the manager, or at least have plenty of witnesses. If you are all quite young, pay at the start or end of your session and make sure an adult relative or guardian is on hand to witness what is paid.

One way to keep the budget down is to set up a society if one of your members is at university. Obviously, this is temporary, and some universities might not allow the general public to join them. It does come with issues though. I did this, and in spite of my gaming “buddies” getting a free venue to game, they managed to muck it up for me, and whilst I had genuine stresses at uni, they succeeded in adding to them. I do often blame a little part of my transfer from Durham to Teesside (brought on from smegging up my first year of Anthropology) down to having to look after a bunch of gamers after GW turfed them out. There were about 30 of us. TWO of us looked for venues.

So what about other venues? Well, it pays to think outside the box. Community centres and sports facilities tend to be the obvious ones. I’ve had reasonably mixed results from those, but depending on your area they may be the only choice. Pubs are best avoided in my experience; pub staff can be the least reputable when it comes to fees. Also, don’t forget to check your local area. There are often other schemes that are looking for community based activities, and it’s also surprising how many existing gaming clubs can actually fall under the radar. Explore word of mouth; see what’s out there.

Obviously it depends on your area. It’s important to cultivate every possible relationship that can be useful. Find out if any of your group have friends or family in council positions, or in a position to offer advice on potential venues, or put in a good word for you with one of their own. I also know of groups that actually own their own facilities, and membership a year is steep per person, but you can go in wherever you like. There are lots of options, and potential out there, you just need to keep half an eye open for useful opportunities. Just remember that finding a venue isn’t even half the work!

So you have a bit of a taste there. The important thing to remember is that gamers are absolutely bloody useless, and in spite of this, some of the most expecting, exacting and whiny gits that the universe has ever spawned. So understand that when setting up clubs, you’re doing so on the back of a massive disadvantage, which is that most people take everything for granted, and will never appreciate the value of something you work so bloody horribly hard to provide for them. If you’re still happy to give the smelly gits a place to game after that realisation, then you’re the kind of worthy, almost saintly person who needs to do just that. Who knows, you might even enjoy it!

Not likely. But what else is there to do? Take up golf? Politics? Cross-stitch? Go into a GW? See, there are a few bonuses…

Soapy Bearbox – Batman the Miniature Game

So time for another Soapy Bearbox article this time from the good ship Hawkwind (Blog HERE), who has kindly done a run down on the Batman miniature game by Knight models. So off you go, enjoy..

So, yet again after shooting my mouth off on Twitter I get roped in to writing a guest post for Mr. Bear. I probably write more frequently for him than I do for my own blog.

The conversation was around the fact that I had not only painted some miniatures but blogged about it as well. The minis were from Knight Models Batman Miniatures Game range and were Joker, Harley Quinn and one of the Clowns.

Now, as may become apparent, I am not really that good a writer. My thought patterns are somewhat erratic and I tend to bounce from point to point like a cat chasing a laser pointer so, with this in mind, I am at least going to try and have some form of order to the following stream of consciousness.

The Miniatures.

I thought I would start here as without decent models no one is really likely to want to play a game. Knight Models originally produced larger sculpts and busts for collectors before branching into the 35mm scale world that Batman belongs to. Here are just a few of the miniatures available to be used in the game.

mini

As you can see there is a good mix of movie and comic book adaptations of the characters. They are beautiful sculpts although, and these are my two gripes, the metal is quite soft and the splitting of some sculpts for casting has made some models that are a bugger to put together.

The Rules

The first thing to say is that the rules for the game are available for free (HERE) and I recommend you go and have a peruse at some point.

The initial section, Game Components, is a list of things you need to play the game; tokens, dice etc. and this is standard fare in most systems I look at lately. The game is played on a 90cm x 90cm board with as much terrain as you can muster (guns are quite nasty and you will appreciate the Blink rolls. All measurements in the game are in cm and pre-measuring can be performed at any time. It uses standard d6 and will require either counters to keep track of models actions or laminating the character cards and using a dry-wipe pen.

Character Cards

Each miniature in the game comes with a character card that lists the basic equipment, statistics and special rules for that model. Let’s look at the Clown Prince of Crime himself, The Joker.

Joker

Each model can be affiliated to a particular crew, in this case the Joker crew. Other crews at present include Batman, Penguin, Bane, Poison Ivy, Two Face and the League of Shadows with a possible Black Mask crew in the pipeline. There are also models that are unaffiliated and can align with any crew although most have a Hates rule that will stop them working with certain people. Catwoman, for example, hates Joker so she cannot be included in a crew led by him.

Models have a rank of either Leader, Sidekick, Henchmen or Free Agent A gang can only consist of one leader which must have the Leader or Sidekick rank. Only one sidekick can be chosen unless you have a Sidekick as a leader in which case you can have a second Sidekick. Henchmen can be unlimited unless the rules state otherwise and Free Agents can be purchased at one per every 150pts of reputation being played.

The next section contains weapons the model is armed with, the type of damage they cause, the cadence (Rate of Fire), ammo carried and any special rules the weapon may have. All weapons cause either Stun and/or Blood damage as shown by the star and drop symbols.

Personal and Special Traits are skills that the model can use in the game and this is where the game allows for different versions of the same model to be quite different. The card above is for the Arkham City version of the Joker model and differs greatly to the abilities for the Dark Knight movie version of the Joker.

Finally we have the Reputation and $ Funding costs of the miniature. The rules seem to build around increments of 150 reputation and an average game is 300. The $ Funding cost is very much like the SWC cost in Infinity in that it stops you from being able to load up on really heavily armed models. You get $500 per 150pts of Reputation played so in a 300pt game you can spend up to $1000 although the Penguin, for example, has a trait that allows an extra $500. Any money not spent during this stage can be used to add equipment to henchmen later on.

The bottom half of the card contains all the statistics used to play the game.

hiring

  • Willpower – This is the number of counters you get to spend to move (MC), attack (AC), defend (DC) or perform a special action (SC) with that model and the limit of counters that can be placed on each stat is limited to the number printed.
  • Strength – This is the number used to cause damage in a melee attack.
  • Movement – This is 10cm for most models plus 1d6 per counter placed in MC.
  • Attack – This is the number of dice you get to roll in melee or spend to shoot and also the target number for an opponent to block your attacks.
  • Defence – This is the number of dice you can use to block an opponent’s attacks as well as the target number for an opponent to hit you.
  • Endurance – This is the amount of damage you can take before going KO or becoming a casualty.
  • Special – These dice can be used to perform certain special abilities. Batman, for example, can use 1MC and 1SC to arrest a KO opponent, effectively removing them from the game as a casualty. If not used during your turn they can be used to help heal stun damage during the end of a round.

Okay, that’s the card. Let’s now have a look at how the game plays.

Playing a game.

I am just going to cover the basic mechanics here that make up the game without getting too involved in all the special rules that models bring to the table.

The first thing to note is that the game takes place at night and this means that, without special rules, the average model can only be seen once within 30cm. I like this aspect of the game and it adds to the feeling of a gloomy Gotham. During play set up each player gets to place lampposts that cause an area within 10cm radius to be illuminated so you have to plan your movement through the shadows carefully.

There are missions in the back of the book to randomly choose from and these make the game more objective based than outright ‘kill everything’ type games. Objectives include things like Ammo to replenish ranged attacks, most models only have enough ammo for 2 or 3 rounds of shooting otherwise or Enigma Puzzles to solve that grant victory points. Once a mission has been chosen and the number of turns is known then a number of counters is placed in a bag/container with an even number for each player – 6 turns = 3 counters each – and these are used to choose which player Takes the Lead. This allows to choose who has the first turn with players then going on an I Go You Go basis model by model.

Movement is as mentioned above with modifiers depending upon terrain. Models can also run, climb, duck and jump – handy for those rooftop chases.

Combat is fairly straight forward and is divided into melee and ranged. Ranged attacks cost 2AC to perform and require a roll to hit against a target number based on the opponents defence. Let’s look at an example.

combat

Agent Ron, a fine member of GCPD, is going to shoot at August, one of Jokers Clown henchmen. As you can see his Automatic Gun has a Cadence (RoF) of 3, provided he hasn’t moved otherwise it drops to 1. This means Agent Ron would get to roll  that number of d6 to Impact the target. August has a Defence of 3 so this is the target number for any shots to hit. If the target was in the open then we would go straight to damage rolls, if a target is in cover then each successful impact has to undergo Blink rolls for every obstacle in the path of the projectile but I won’t go into greater detail here. Firearms damage on a 2+ so you roll a number of dice equal to successful impacts and each 2+ would cause the damage of the weapon – in this example each successful damage roll would cause 1 Blood and 1 Stun Damage and because guns are nasty any rolls of 1 will still cause a point of Stun damage thanks to their Scratch rule.

Along with damage dice an additional d6 is rolled, it’s wise to use a different colour. This is the collateral damage dice and has the possibility to do one of two extra things. If the number on it matches any of the damage rolls (unless it’s a 1) it knocks the target down as well as causing the original damage. If the number on it is a 6 and at least one damage dice caused a wound then the weapon causes a critical effect. This is either an additional Stun marker or a weapon specific critical.

Melee combat uses the same damage method but the initial rolls to hit are slightly different. Using the above models again as an example Agent Ron tries to hit August with his Baton. He has an AC of 3 so could have allocated up to 3 of his actions to attack. Assuming he had, the player would roll 3 dice with a target number equal to August’s Defence of 3. Let’s say Ron rolled a 1,2 & 5, that would be only 1 Impact but, as shown on the card, the Baton has two special rules – Handy and Tough. Handy allows rerolled failed Impact dice so the player could reroll the two dice that missed. The player gets a 2 & 3 so has ended up with 2 successful impacts and it is now time for the opposing player to try and block these incoming wounds.

August has a Defence of 3 and because the player anticipated the assault from the cop he allocated 3 of his counters in Defence. This gives him 3 dice to roll to Block Ron’s impacts with a target number equal to Ron’s attack value of 3. Tragically, August rolls a 1,1 & 6 and so only stops one of the impacts from connecting.

Ron now rolls to see if he causes any damage to August by rolling against his Strength value which is 5+. Fortunately for Ron his Baton has Tough which gives the wielder a +1 Strength bonus meaning Ron now has to roll a 4+. Rolling 1 damage and 1 collateral damage dice Ron gets a pair of 5’s. This means he causes the 1 point of Stun damage from his weapon as well as knocking August to the floor.

At the end of each round models can roll 1d6 plus any unused SC to remove stun damage by rolling 4+ so continuing the above example August rolls 1d6 and gets a 3, his luck continues, so the Stun damage remains in place.

The game allows for some very cinematic action. One scenario had the Joker and Batman fighting on a rooftop and the Joker successfully pushed the Dark Knight over the edge. Unfortunately Batman still had 1SC left which allowed him to open his Bat Cape and float to the ground rather than go squish. Another had the Joker drop a set of explosive remote control teeth onto a fight below between Batman, a cop and one of his own henchmen – it could have cost me the game in VP’s but it seemed like something the Joker would do. I think people sometimes forget that the aim of these things is to have fun rather than win at all costs.

There you go a fairly simplistic view at the game. There is so much more I didn’t go into but I urge you to check out the rules from the link above and the download the cards from the Knight Models site, grab a few proxies and give it a go.

If you fancy a chat about the game I am on the Batman Miniatures Game forum at http://www.batmanminiaturegame.com/forums/english/ username JohnnyHawkwind. Come and say hi.

Soapy Bearbox – New GW Technical Paints

A quick question on Twitter got me a response from @AvantGarve and below is the result 🙂 Basically I wanted to know some first hand experience of the new paints that GW have just released. Mike was happy to do this and in record time, so here is the quickest Soapy Bearbox ever 😉

Disclaimer: I am by no means a ‘master’, nor event ‘great’ minis painter – I’ve only been doing this as a hobby for about the last couple of years, so I’m still (relatively) new to the hobby and am always trying to learn new things and improve where I can.

That said, one of the armies I’ve always wanted to try building was a rusted-as-hell Necron force, and the release of the new GW Special Effects paints has inspired me to finally take the plunge with them.

I’ve now tried Agrellan Earth, Typhus Corrosion, and Ryza Rust on a test Necron Warrior, with varying degrees of success.

colours
 
Agrellan Earth – a little disappointing to be honest.  I must have put at least 3 ‘decent’ (in my opinion) coats of AE on a base I’d painted Calthan Brown, and while the cracked effect *did* work, it wasn’t quite as impressive as I’d expected.  I’m unsure if it’s a case of a bad batch of AE (I’ve read online that this has occurred to others), or if my expectations were too high, or if it’s a case of just getting used to using it.

Earth

As the cracking also started showing the white undercoat I’d applied to the base, I ended up applying a light wash with Seraphim Sepia and Ushabti Bone drybrush. I regretted this a bit at first, but the end result looks ok.  I’m hoping it’s just a case of ‘practice makes perfect’ with this, otherwise I’m still not 100% a fan.

earth2

Typhus Corrosion – as you may have read elsewhere, TC is similar to a wash, yet with some grit in it, and has been designed to work with Ryza Rust.  Definitely agree with all of these points.  I’d suggest *maybe* using it sparingly, as I *may* have gone a bit overboard with applying it to my Necron.  It definitely added a ‘decent’ dark corroded look to the silver body parts!  When I next use it, I’m going to keep some paper towels handy to try wiping away (downwards) excess for better effect.

nec

BEFORE

aprt1

AFTER

Ryza Rust – Probably my favourite result at the end of the test, was seeing the RR being applied.  I just did a light drybrush over random parts, and was *very* pleased with the end result. Combined with TC, it really looks impressive. Interesting to note that it’s considered a ‘Dry’ Paint, but it’s got more liquid in it than the other GW Dry Paints.

part2

So, I’d definitely recommend Typhus Corrosion and Ryza Rust as a combo – I got a great result in terms of getting a ‘rusted-as-hell’ Necron look I was going for – and if I can do it then better painters than I should be able to come up with some great effects.

fin

I’m still on the fence about Agrellan Earth – I can only say it’s ‘Ok’, in that it does what it’s meant to, but will definitely require more practice to get better results.

Mike Garvey

Some interesting stuff hopefully I will be able to collar some other people to talk about the other paints as well.